Fixing my front load dryer

I have taken my Sears/Kenmore/Frigidaire/Electrolux front load dryer apart a few times to fix it and thought that since so many people enjoyed my post on fixing my Keurig coffee maker (about 33000 page views so far), I would do the same with this project.

Like my B60 Keurig coffee maker, I have a love-hate relationship with this dryer... okay, lately it is more hate, but whatever.  This model, 970-C87192-10 has a specific flaw that I have found annoying in the extreme, but from what I can tell in a few web searches, this may be a common problem and so is the fix.  In this model, there is a small space at the bottom of the drum where it meets the door and often, zippers, buttons and clasps will slip in there and wedge between the door and the drum, eventually twisting off completely and usually this results in destroyed clothing.  R.I.P. favourite Disney hoodie :(

The following describes the process of replacing the drum guide and felt seal in this particular dryer model, but other front load dryers share a similar problem.  Over time, the plastic drum guide and the felt it rides on both wear, which makes the gap larger and more susceptible to this problem, so even once this is fixed, it should probably be replaced every couple of years as preventative maintenance.

Dryer Model: 970-C87192-10

Tools Needed:
  #2 Robertson or #3 Phillips Screwdriver   (they both fit these combo-screws)
  Thin blade (#2) standard screwdriver
  Vacuum

Parts Needed:

   131963900  Glide, drum (x2)           ~= $13

   134440200  Seal, felt, upper            ~= $9

   5308027429  Adhesive, high temp  ~= $28

   134134700  Seal, felt, lower            ~= $33

Note that usually the adhesive is included with the lower felt, so check first to avoiding buying it twice.

I am going to throw in a plug for the awesome folks at Reliable Parts in Phillips park: (6120 2nd St SE, Calgary, AB), and "Daryl" in particular for his awesome service.  While I was able to look up all the parts in this manual, the Sears Canada approved service depo wanted to ship the parts from Ontario (5 days away) and I wanted to fix it today.  In hindsight, I should have just called Reliable first.  Anyway - Daryl was awesome and got me set up with the parts I needed for about $73 total.

This should take about an hour, but take your time because the inside edges of the metal are SHARP and I manage to cut myself every time I open this thing up.  Every... single... time.

Before you start dismantling things, unplug the power.  220 Volts at 30 Amps can be nasty on your body so pay attention to safety first and unplug that sucker.

First, if the dryer is stacked on top of the washer, remove the securing screws and lift it slightly off the mounts so you can get to the lower set of screws.

Next, remove the screws of the lower panel and the panel should basically just drop off.  Try to do that gently.  There are two more screws under that panel that hold on the door panel assembly so remove those as well.

Now you need to move to the top-back of the unit and remove the two screws holding in that top panel.  These are on the top edge, not the lower, recessed ones.  With the screw removed, push back the top panel and remove it.  Again be careful of sharp edges or it will soon look like a crime scene.

With the top removed, you can get to the wiring harness and four mounting screws holding on the front panel. Disconnect the wiring harness at the two cable connectors before you do anything else.  Then remove the four top screws to release the door panel.  Using a flat blade standard screwdriver, separate the door panel from the main body with a lever motion.  The door should now hang from the top panel hooks.

Gently lift up and pull the door panel away from the main body and set it on the floor.  That will reveal the open dryer, drum and motor as well as a whole bunch of lint because this dryer is really horrible at containing the lint in the exhaust path.  Vacuum out the whole body and the inside of the door.  This is important for fire hazard reasons anyway, but you will also want to have a nice clean area to work with for the next part of this adventure.

Inside the rim of the dryer drum, you will see a plastic white strip that is probably in really rough shape.

Mine was in pieces with holes and fractures everywhere as well as having a deep wear band in the center - the primary cause of ruined clothes in my life.  This can be removed and discarded.  Replace that with the two "drum glides" using one of the double-hole sets (see picture).  Press these in until they click. 

On the door, you will see the felt seal is in two parts - don't mix these up.  Remove the top section and clean the area of any debris.  Apply a film of the high temperature glue to the replacement top felt piece and wait one minute (60 seconds) for the glue to become tacky, then apply and press it into the same location as the original.  Repeat that process for the lower seal and wait at least 5 minutes before attempting to reassemble.

Reassemble in the reverse order taking care to lift the drum slightly as you push the door assembly into place.

 - hang the door assembly (lift the drum slightly while doing this)

 - press it into place on the body

 - screw in the top of the door

 - reconnect the wiring harness

 - replace the top plate and replace the screws

 - replace the screws at the bottom of the door

 - reattach the bottom plate

 - re-align and attach the bottom plate to the washer, if it is a stacked unit

 - plug the dryer back in

 - turn it on to test

If there is no smoke, or strange noise, you have succeeded,  otherwise call for a professional repair.  Hopefully this helps you save the $600 replacement or $200 service fee and you can get a few more years out of your dryer.

Disclaimer:  This was done for my own purposes and I am sharing for the sake of sharing.  If you chose to use this information you do so at your own risk.